How To Change A Heater Motor In A Chevy S10 Blazer

Diagnosing & Replacing The Power Window Motor In An S10 Blazer

Ability window systems in late vehicles are congenital on 3 basic platforms. The pair of scissors organization is by far the most popular, and is what this article volition show. Although the vehicle shown is a Chevy S10 pickup, almost pair of scissors systems (especially GM'south) are very similar.

The first pace in diagnosing a power window motor that doesn't move is to check the fuses and/or circuit breakers! Check for ability with the ignition cardinal in the on position.

If the power checks out, remove the door panel and liner on the offending door.

The adjacent stride in replacing a power window motor is to first verify that the motor is truly defective. With the door panel and liner removed and the power window switch plugged in, our technician checks the voltage at the motor. To properly cheque tardily model vehicles (almost cars and trucks from 1980 up), the plus probe from the meter must be connected to one of the motor wires and the negative probe to the other wire. If yous are using a digital meter, polarity is not important. With the switch depressed in both the up and downwardly positions, nosotros are getting a reading of 12.xi volts at the back of the motor. If the voltage reading in either position was 0 or below 11 volts, that would indicate that at that place is a problem elsewhere in the switches or wiring. Having 12 volts at the motor confirms that our switches and the wiring is working properly and the motor is defective.

As well worth mentioning is that before replacing a motor, the mechanism must exist thoroughly examined for any flaws that would prevent the motor and regulator assembly from moving or operating properly. A cleaved or binding regulator could cause similar symptoms.

Once we are sure that the motor is defective, we will need to remove information technology and supplant it. In nigh vehicles, it is necessary to remove the regulator from the door before removing the motor.

Many tardily model vehicles use 1/4 inch rivets to concord the regulator in the door. To remove the rivets, a eye dial and hammer are used to punch in the middle pin of the rivets. These pins are made out of hardened steel and cannot exist drilled.

Before the rivets are removed, the window must be secured to keep it from falling. We like to use blue masking record for this. A stick placed in the door will also work but fine.

Next, the remaining rivet is drilled out with a i/iv inch drill. It may be necessary to hold the head of the rivet with a pair of pliers to keep it from spinning.

With the rivets removed, the regulator arms should slide out of the channels on the bottom of the glass and the door. The regulator assembly is then removed from the door through the large admission hole.

This step is important to forbid personal injury!!!

Nigh regulators apply a large clockspring to weigh the arm and gear. This leap can exert up to 40 pounds of forcefulness in some applications. When the motor is removed from the regulator, the arms will endeavour to rotate in one direction while the chassis goes in the opposite direction. Just like a giant pair of leap loaded pair of scissors!!!

The regulator arm and gear must be locked to the chassis to forestall this from happening. There are several different ways that volition piece of work satisfactorily. This is the ane that we adopt.

The regulator and motor assembly is clamped in a bench vise. A 1/four inch hole is drilled through the gear and chassis in a clear flat spot.

A ane/four inch commodities is then inserted in the hole and a nut finger tightened to it. This will foreclose the chassis and arms from moving when the motor is removed.

In the to a higher place photograph, yous can see the nut and bolt we placed in the regulator in the previous step. Y'all tin can also catch a glimpse of the clockspring on the right mitt side of the photo.

There are three, 3/xvi inch rivets property the motor onto this regulator. They are hands removed by drilling off the heads with a 3/xvi inch drill. With all 3 rivets drilled off, the motor is pulled abroad from the regulator. The remaining $.25 of the rivets must be cleared away from the regulator before the new motor is installed.

A small dab of grease is placed on the gear of the new motor before it is installed. I believe the saying went, "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

The motor has multiple mounting holes. The holes demand to be matched with the holes that are used originally and lined up in the verbal position the old motor was in.

The motor tin can be either riveted or bolted back onto the regulator. Our technician has chosen to use 3/16 inch machine screws and nuts to attach the motor to the regulator. The screws are placed in the same holes that the rivets were removed from.

Subsequently the motor is secured to the regulator, the 1/4 inch bolt holding the gear and chassis together is removed.

The regulator and motor assembly is placed back into the door and the plastic slides are lined upwards in their respective channels. A footling grease on the slides and channels will help keep the windows operating smoothly.

The regulator assembly tin can be reinstalled using 1/4 inch rivets like the mill (correct photo) or 1/4 inch bolts and nuts (left photo). For nearly of us, getting hold of a rivet gun capable of treatment i/4 rivets is out of the question.

With the regulator reinstalled, all that remains is reattaching the liner and reinstalling the door panel.

To notice used replacement ability window motors use our request grade.

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Source: https://www.usedpartscentral.com/diagnosing-and-replacing-power-window-motor-in-an-s10-blazer.html

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